check out these pics i fund..










heres the link

http://68vert.blogspot.com/2008_10_01_archive.html

 

Couple pics of how I braced mine. I was doing a full inner outer. If you are doing just inner 2+2 is right you should brace door. I'd also put it on stands and make sure both sides are even. There is actually some dimensions you can refer to in shop manual (if you have one) that tells height key points shoulds be at. I took a lazer level and was able to get them lined up. Before I built the jig I was using trailer jacks instead of jackstands. Trailer jacks are easier to get exact height you need.

 

i know but my car is put together and all done on the outside. just the floors and rockers need doing. my outer rockers are changed. they are new! freakin idiot whoever had the car before. another 500 bucks he could have made the car immaculate. instead, he spent hours and $ on fiberglass. i thought it was all fixed and took the car , sanded down the panels and found no bondo and went straight for paint.

how would you tackle my car with the inner rockers...

 

I did quite a few of them years ago, all shiny and nice, but rotten rockers. Remove the interior, raise and support the car, straighten the car to the right shape, cut out the worst rocker and replace it, then do the other one.

The only evidence it was ever done was a row of new welds on the bottom pinchweld, which is actually supposed to be painted chassis black anyway.

Always seemed funny that the cars looked exactly like they did coming in and going out, but you only had to drive them a few feet before you felt the difference. Heck, you could feel the difference just closing the doors.

 

when you say that what do you mean? ive made a support brace from the door striker to the hinge as the picture shows. when you say raise the car i want to know what you would do...

remember, i got engine in, i have suspension wheels etc... what i also do have is 8 craftsman stands and two car jacks. please tell me how you would jack it up.

 

That's an excellent description of how I typically did it, with the car supported on eight jack large jack stands, carefully adjusted, with spacers and wedges if necessary to make the car straight and true. Two of the jack stands would be under the inner pivot of the lower control arms, and two supporting the rear axle. The other four would be on the frame rails at the torque boxes, front and rear. I didn't use door braces, since that would require removing the door. If the door opening was still distorted, I'd set a jack rod between the upper front of the opening, and lower rear. I removed only the interior, leaving all exterior, drivetrain, etc., in place. The lower part of the front fenders is unbolted, and blocked outward to access the rocker.

 

would this be enough to remove torque panels....im really not in the mood to freakin take apart the whole entire front end. in order to take the panels off gotta take everything else in the front off...

btw thanks for all the help. without this site i would have really ran myself into a wall with this one...

 

Absolutely untrue. If I hear about you taking any part whatsoever off the the front end, I will find a way to come over there and smack you upside the head. It is totally unnecessary to take apart the whole front end, or even part of the front end.

 

 

I'm using a new tb and plan to separate it if needed. I'm still prepping the outer rocker. I used ospho and primer.