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Track testing 3.73s

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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 04:58 PM
  #61  
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01 F body?.
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by PurpleIcedGT
Lmao! I love the gearhead frame of mind lol
Lmao, never looked at it from that point of view. Guess I do run her a little harder than most.

Originally Posted by Mishri
yeah brake stalling so far resulted in worse 60's in both my mustangs so far. Track opens early this year (new owners) on april 14th and 15th, i really hope we have some good weather and they have everything squared away so I can run. might be the first time i get below 4000' DA

I'm really surprised at how fast that is with just a few bolt-ons. I guess that's how LS1's got their reputation...
I've never had much luck trying to brake stall it. Also read somewhere that your brakes take a second to release, so if you're having to stand on them while stalling, they will drag the rotors longer than if you're barely on them from the get go. Might be BS, idk. The car has surprised me too. I think I've just got the right combo of mods, tune, prep, and DA. Been doing it for 9-10 years now too, so I'm sure that gives me a little edge over a nervous first timer.

Originally Posted by S8ER01Z
Exactly.. the problem is they got dirt cheap and we got used to see people like me modding them up and running bad times. Back in the day (98~99) I remember seeing lid / catback only cars cracking 12s all day long, drag radial cars nailing the mid 12s, etc... now if you see an f-body at the track its either built and should be fast or it has a ton of mods and isn't likely to run any better than a 13.

Honestly I'm happy to see the new 5.0 cars putting up the numbers they have been with very little mods... that has been missing from the car scene for a long time IMHO.
Good point man. It just takes practice and the right tune/mods/conditions. Unfortunately, every new driver adviser rises his/her new slip all over the web along with their mile long mod list, so everyone sees the mod list and slips, but never factor in the new driver, lol.

Originally Posted by buster
I swapped 3.73s into my 01 and it made no difference in my et. Maybe driver error, glad it worked for you.
Hmm, did your 60' get worse? Should've helped you out a good bit. What gear did you have before the 3.73s?
Old Mar 24, 2012 | 01:25 PM
  #63  
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Not really sure, think it was 3.56. The stock gear on an 01 gt. No, everything was the same except I was in 4th gear instead of 3rd.
Old Mar 24, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by buster
Not really sure, think it was 3.56. The stock gear on an 01 gt. No, everything was the same except I was in 4th gear instead of 3rd.
Stock gear for those cars is 3.27.. may of been that 4th gear shift hurting you. A 4.10 most likely would've been a better choice so that you could've crossed the line at a higher RPM. Either that or bump your RPM limiter up so you could still cross in 3rd (depending on how far off it is, may not be doable).
Old Mar 25, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #65  
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I don't know, I have a few racing trophies, so I consider myself a pretty good racer (not great or anything) but I just couldn't get the car to run even with the 3.73s. It was consistent 14.2 with the gears and without. It ended up being one of the reasons that I traded the car in on the 06. But that was also in 2007. With the 3.27 I would scream it through the traps in 3rd. But I will give them this : That car ran like a train as far as consistency with the 3.73s and lost in the quarter finals at Norwalk Fun Ford Weekend. Which is like 300-400 cars in my class that day.

Last edited by buster; Mar 25, 2012 at 09:02 PM.
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 02:26 AM
  #66  
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so is this going to be a proper built race transmission or a stock replacement w/ stall?

if its a built trans.......... how are they going to cover the cost on the warranty? your buddy at the shop just going to send them a $3,000+ bill?
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 302army187
so is this going to be a proper built race transmission or a stock replacement w/ stall?

if its a built trans.......... how are they going to cover the cost on the warranty? your buddy at the shop just going to send them a $3,000+ bill?
Its going to be a built RPM Level IV Transmission. This transmission goes for $1900. His labor is like $400.

For comparison, a stock trans through a dealer is a little over $1700, so its not going to make any difference in cost, not enough to raise any eyebrows anyway.

The only thing I'll probably have to come out of pocket on is the new stall.

As far as the warranty goes, he simply called the warranty company with his business ID and ASE info, gave them the diagnosis, and then they authorized it. Pretty simple process.
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Stone629
Its going to be a built RPM Level IV Transmission. This transmission goes for $1900. His labor is like $400.

For comparison, a stock trans through a dealer is a little over $1700, so its not going to make any difference in cost, not enough to raise any eyebrows anyway.

The only thing I'll probably have to come out of pocket on is the new stall.

As far as the warranty goes, he simply called the warranty company with his business ID and ASE info, gave them the diagnosis, and then they authorized it. Pretty simple process.
Exactly... I can't believe more people don't do it to be honest... insurance still pays out the same amount, you cover the rest and you don't end up with a POS that's going to fail again.
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #69  
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Tuner is telling me to save my money on a high dollar stall and just buy some DRs if all I want to do is run high 11s. Mess is going to add up once I buy a $5-600 dollar stall and pay the $300 deductible. I hate how expensive this hobby is sometimes, lol.
Old Mar 26, 2012 | 02:42 PM
  #70  
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$900 is a lot better than $2600+ labor. haha.
BTW when are you going to Fey again?



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