2014 No Crank - No start .. with a twist
#1
2014 No Crank - No start .. with a twist
Hi Guys -
I have a dilemma with my girlfriends Mustang... For her birthday I installed an MPC (Fortin) Remote start; the type the utilizes the factory KeyFob. It's a good kit with a simple T style harness, and fairly straight-forward to install.
Once I was able to get the thing programmed (took about 5 tries) it worked great! I even was able to get the parking lights to come on when the car fired up remotely!
I thought all was well until my girl tried to start the car with just the key! You have power on ACC but turn to start nothing... Car will start remotely but NOT with the dang key!!
First, they told me I must have damaged the immobilizer ring... (not likely but ok- it was $30) nope - still nothing.... What makes this, even more perplexing it that I removed the entire system back to factory and it still won't start!?
Fortin is stumped as to what has caused this... Short of bringing it to the dealer, any ideas??
Any Known workarounds to disable the PATS system? I think the keys must have been reprogrammed or something.
Help!!
I have a dilemma with my girlfriends Mustang... For her birthday I installed an MPC (Fortin) Remote start; the type the utilizes the factory KeyFob. It's a good kit with a simple T style harness, and fairly straight-forward to install.
Once I was able to get the thing programmed (took about 5 tries) it worked great! I even was able to get the parking lights to come on when the car fired up remotely!
I thought all was well until my girl tried to start the car with just the key! You have power on ACC but turn to start nothing... Car will start remotely but NOT with the dang key!!
First, they told me I must have damaged the immobilizer ring... (not likely but ok- it was $30) nope - still nothing.... What makes this, even more perplexing it that I removed the entire system back to factory and it still won't start!?
Fortin is stumped as to what has caused this... Short of bringing it to the dealer, any ideas??
Any Known workarounds to disable the PATS system? I think the keys must have been reprogrammed or something.
Help!!
#2
If you put the remote starter back in, will it work remotely starting again? You
don't still have the key module in the vehicle, right?
Did you try to start it with the key that you used for the remote starter?
I read that if the car sees two keys, it won't start at the ignition. If
the remote starter key was powered, when you put the other key in
the ignition, with the one in the remote starter powered up, it cancels out.
The PATS light would blink a 1:3 code. IT could have possibly erased
the one you put in the ignition.
When the engine does not start, the lock LED flashes rapidly. Leave the ignition on
with the key in, until the pats light LED starts to flash a 2 digit code. It will flash, pause,
flash (X:X). Check the following codes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other key, or objects? Try a different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to dealer
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to dealer
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer.
You can't program any keys into PATS unless you already have two working
ones, or VCM software and cable.
don't still have the key module in the vehicle, right?
Did you try to start it with the key that you used for the remote starter?
I read that if the car sees two keys, it won't start at the ignition. If
the remote starter key was powered, when you put the other key in
the ignition, with the one in the remote starter powered up, it cancels out.
The PATS light would blink a 1:3 code. IT could have possibly erased
the one you put in the ignition.
When the engine does not start, the lock LED flashes rapidly. Leave the ignition on
with the key in, until the pats light LED starts to flash a 2 digit code. It will flash, pause,
flash (X:X). Check the following codes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other key, or objects? Try a different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to dealer
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to dealer
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer.
You can't program any keys into PATS unless you already have two working
ones, or VCM software and cable.
#3
Did you try to start it with the key that you used for the remote starter?
There’s no rapid flashing PATS lights at all. Th only other thing it does weird is that when you insert the key to run (after remote starting of course) is that the car will chime a few extra times...
#4
I see how they install, so you pulled all the "T" harnesses out; main and immo, and
it still won't start? Also, the CAN LO and HI were also removed? Go back to 100%
stock, and test. The module is a 100% go between unit, so if it won't start at the
switch, then something isn't programmed right, or there is a short. I would solder
the CAN LO and CAN HI before wrapping. Even if twisted on, does not assure a
secure contact.
IF you remove everything, module and "T" harnesses, and the CAN lines and it still
will not start, then something else is now wrong with the vehicle.
That is quite simply, the easiest remote start installation I have ever seen...
it still won't start? Also, the CAN LO and HI were also removed? Go back to 100%
stock, and test. The module is a 100% go between unit, so if it won't start at the
switch, then something isn't programmed right, or there is a short. I would solder
the CAN LO and CAN HI before wrapping. Even if twisted on, does not assure a
secure contact.
IF you remove everything, module and "T" harnesses, and the CAN lines and it still
will not start, then something else is now wrong with the vehicle.
That is quite simply, the easiest remote start installation I have ever seen...
#5
Always check the pins on the T harness. Bought my daughter a T-harness for her 2017 Escape audio system to add external amps via High level inputs and a sub LOC to the stock system. Upon inspecting it, I found 3 pins that were not fully seated in their respective connectors. They looked seated but when I gently tugged on each one, three weren't seated but rather held in place by the surrounding wires pushing into adjacent pins locations.
Had I tried to install it before inspecting it, I would've been racking my brain because they wouldn't have made a proper connection on install.
Had I tried to install it before inspecting it, I would've been racking my brain because they wouldn't have made a proper connection on install.
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