Perf_white_GT

also remember that the insurance company will quote you a motor from ford.. or at least a quality rebuild... you should be able to get a decent mmr shortblock for that.

(or a longblock if you do it right...)

texas_stang02

yeah i was actually on my way to Katy to help my brother and sister in law paint their new house. i've been considering building a new motor and had decided to just save up and try to get it done sometime next year, but now i guess this will just speed up the process a bit. i'm calling my insurance first thing this morning to see what my options are, but i'm pretty sure i'm just going to use this opportunity to build the engine i've been wanting to build. i'll probably have to take out a personal loan to do it, but a $10k loan to build up my current car is cheaper than buying a new(er) car... and besides, i don't want another car.

i was looking on MMR's web site and was considering their long blocks. i was comparing costs on the MMR600 and MMR900 long blocks, and think i may go with the 900 with stage 2 ported heads and some cams (nearly the same cost as the MMR600 when upgraded to a forged crank). from what i can see, they just have a generic "stage 1/2/3" cam option, but i'm sure they have a grind for forced induction cars.

texas_stang02

yeah i priced a stock-replacement long block from Ford a while back and it was going to run about $5500, i can get an MMR long block with forged rotating assembly, ported heads, and cams for not a whole lot more than that.

ChalknCover

I don't know if this will help or not, but you may wanna try contacting TX DOT. I had a friend who drove through a unmarked uneven pavement area and when he hit it, the car bottomed out and took out a ball joint. VA DOT took care of the claim because it was there fault that they did not have the area properly identified to caution drivers. You may wanna try the same and say the construction zone didn't have adequate measures to keep the road from flooding and the water caused your car to hydrolock. I would try anyway.

texas_stang02

so i got the car to the shop and they got it to turn over but said it sounds like sh*t, definitely a bent or broken rod (or worse). before tearing into it they called and told me to file an insurance claim, so now I'm just waiting for the insurance company to send their man down to the shop to inspect the car.

i spoke with the shop owner this morning and i'm going to end up with a built engine by the time it's all said and done. insurance will cover a portion based on their estimates, and i'll pay the rest. i'm DEFINITELY going with a forged rotating assembly, and possibly some ported heads and blower cams (depending on how much out-of-pocket costs i'll have). maybe this whole ordeal is a blessing in disguise.

99GTvert

The great thing about this is that you have an excuse for a forged motor.

No one mentioned this, but I have read about this in the past with 'hydrolocked' engines. Did you check the MAF? I really don't know much at all about engines breaking/grenading, but again, that was something I read on here (water + MAF sensor = won't start....right?).