I have to say yuck on the new 5.0 badge.

I had issues with the motor mounts too. Thats why we went with RMP adjustable ones. They are really nice.

 

finally the 6cyl man getsa V8.
and yes that 5.0 badge is horrible

nice painting though :-) although I have a performer rpm intake now I always was a fan of the weiand I had

anyway, make sure you get a shroud for your fan. the fan as is won't do much in traffic.it sucks air through only half the radiator. it will be hot all aound it.

and the pulleys you have, it looks like the waterpump pulley is bigger than crank pulley (typical underdrive system for more HP).
but that can cause problems when idling (it did for me, but not neccessarily for you, just in case it happens)
if the pulleys are same size, lets say 6" and 6" then at 850rpm the waterpump will run at 850rpm
however if the crank is 5" and the waterpump 6" the waterpump will only run at 5/6th of engine speed. assume 850crank->~700 waterpump
if its the other way around (6"pump pullet and 5" crank pulley) the waterpump will run at ~1000rpm.
slow waterpump is better for making HP (less drag) but can be a PITA on a hot summer day ... just so you know

 

Crank is 5.5" and the water pump is 5.875"

 

Well now I've hit another snag. My drivers side exhaust manifold hits the z-bar so I can't bolt it to the engine

 

I like the 5.0 badge, a little. I dunno, i plan on going with no badges anyways, so I guess I can't say too much for the subject.

 

Having that 5.0 badge is like saying it has a new 5.0 in it.

Definitely listen to Kalli about a fan shroud.

I can't believe that the exhaust manifold is hitting the Z bar.

 

Very good point about pulley sizes.

 

that's a bummer with the exhaust, not made for manual?

with the pulley sizes, you might get away with it and for break in i don't see much of a problem since you will be revving the engine.
However if it all settles down and you just leave it run in idle carefully monitor the temperature. if all good as well try with hood closed.

what I am saying is, if you have trouble with heat at idle, investigate on pulleys and fanshroud.
I had this problem but I had a flex fan so/ that would turn slower as well. you have a electric fan so you might get away with it
however the cooling system without shroud is inefficient.
the aim is not to blow air towards the engine.
the aim is to shove as much cold air through _all_ the ribs in radiator causing the water to cool (exchange heat)
that's no problem when you are driving down the road, however at standstill your fan has to do all that work, and as it's currently setup it just pulls air through the middle.
scrapyard is probably the first place I'd look at.
personally I'm not a fan of electric fans. some people connect it with a switch instead of thermostat and forget to run it on or off. really bad. i therm clutched fan shroud is ideal. it will turn when hot and just hang in there when cold. I'll convert my flex fan to that at some stage. electric fans needs thermoswitches and relays and wiring which I'm not happy with. b ut that's my personal opinion. some swear on it

i don't want to cause grief or make you uncomfortable. it's just when you have problems with heat when idling you have a small list of things where you could improve ;-)

 

Mine has a circuit kit that runs a relay and circuit off of a seperate thermostat that turns on at 200 and off at 185.

 

As for the header/manifold situation they are from an 87 302 and during then they had cable clutch setup so they wouldn't have had to route around a zbar.